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Deep in the sea swell garners sun, Greens out of the waters' lethargy. Breathe out. Softly. Time. Breathe in. Deep. Paddle. Suntanned warmth and wet wave Oil the board's forward drive. Fathoms of sun supine Now swell that light may be defined, And, murmuring, skies of seas uprise. Sea roars. A great hand scoops and flings. The board rips water, kneel, half-rise, Shark-nose dips down into the sea. Sea dumps. Taut in the waters' curves spine bends. Mouth screams salt white. Eyes shatter sun green. Board twists from hands, Explodes to sky, Tumbles high and knifes back down To where the seaweed currents die And swirls of sand fall down to sediment. |
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